River, lake and haor, Netrokona

Someshwari Riverসোমেশ্বরী নদী

Time needed
An hour on the bank, two with a boat.
best months
Nov–Feb

The river that comes down from the Garo Hills past Ranikhong and Durgapur: clear water over pebbles and sand in winter, a torrent in the rains, boats, coal and sand gatherers, and the hills standing behind it.

Plan your visit

Best time
November to February for clear water and the sand roads; the rains to see it in spate from the bank.

At a glance

Source
Nokrek range, Garo Hills, Meghalaya (the Simsang)
In Bangladesh
About 50 km, from Ranikhong to the Kangsha
Name
After Someshwar Pathak, founder of Susang, by tradition

About

The Garo call it Simsang; in Meghalaya it is the biggest river of the hills, rising on the Nokrek range and cutting the Garo Hills in two before it drops into Bangladesh beside the Ranikhong hill. Tradition says it was renamed when Someshwar Pathak took the country in 1280. In Bangladesh it winds about 50 km south and east past Durgapur, Kumudganj and Kalmakanda to the Kangsha, with branches into the Sunamganj haors.

At Durgapur it is the whole landscape. In the dry months the river shrinks to channels across a wide bed of white sand and rounded stones, and the sand itself is a road: autos, motorcycles and lorries cross it to the Bijoypur side, villagers sieve it for coal and gravel washed down from the hills, and the water that remains is clear enough to see the stones. After rain in Meghalaya it rises in hours into a brown flood that takes the crossings with it. Either way the view upstream, to the first ridges of the Garo Hills, is why people stand on its bank.

Boats can be hired at the Durgapur ghat for a slow hour on the water, and the petrified wood sometimes found on its sands has made it a curiosity for geologists too.

Getting there: A few minutes' walk from Durgapur bazar or Birishiri; the main ghat is on the Durgapur side.

Things to do

  • Walk out onto the sand bed in winter and look upstream to the hills.
  • Take a boat from the Durgapur ghat.
  • Watch the sand and coal gatherers at work.

Good to know

  • Do not swim where sand or coal has been dug; the pits are deep and the current pulls.
  • A flash flood can arrive on a sunny day; keep an eye on the water and the sky over Meghalaya.

Getting there

Read the Netrokona guide

Nearby

Village and communityEsha795 · CC BY-SA 3.0

Birishiri

2 km, Netrokona

The village across the Someshwari from Durgapur bazar that gives the whole area its name among travellers: Garo and Hajong homes, mission schools from the British years, the cultural academy, and the base for the river, the white clay hills and Ranikhong.

Museum and galleryBhoboghure · CC BY 4.0

Tribal Cultural Academy, Birishiri

2 km, Netrokona

A government academy founded in 1977 to keep the languages, dress, songs and dances of the Garo, Hajong, Koch, Banai, Dalu and Mandi communities of greater Mymensingh; a small museum, a library and a stage for their festivals.

Hills and mountainsকুপি বাতি · CC BY-SA 4.0

Bijoypur white clay hills

2 km, Netrokona

Low hills of white china clay on the border at Bijoypur, mined for the country's ceramics since the 1950s; the old cuttings hold pools of blue-green water under white and pink cliffs.

Fort and palaceSalim Khandoker · CC BY-SA 4.0

Susang Durgapur Rajbari

4 km, Netrokona

The seat of the Susang rajas, descendants of Someshwar Pathak who ruled this corner from 1280 until the end of the zamindari; rebuilt after the 1897 earthquake, now four decaying houses, one of them the magistrate's residence.

Church

Ranikhong mission

9 km, Netrokona

St Joseph's Catholic parish on the Ranikhong hill above the Someshwari, where the river enters Bangladesh: the first Garo mission of the region, on this hill since 1915, with the river and the hills below the church.

Monument and memorial

Sat Shahid Mazar, Lengura

14 km, Netrokona

The graves of seven freedom fighters killed at Nazirpur on 26 July 1971 and buried at Phulbari, Lengura, at the foot of the hills in Kalmakanda; a memorial on the border road.

Location

Someshwari River, Netrokona

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